Wentworth Woodhouse in Rotherham is truly a magnificent sight. Regarded as the biggest house in the UK, this exceptional stately home is also noted for having the longest facade of any house in Europe. Currently undergoing a multi-million pound restoration project, Wentworth Woodhouse has welcomed the public to explore its hidden treasures. Interestingly, there is another historic estate in England that shares the Wentworth name.
Located just a short distance from Barnsley, there is another impressive country house that stands out in the Yorkshire countryside. While Barnsley College currently occupies it, Wentworth Castle, a lesser-known gem, boasts a fascinating history that is ready to be explored.
These historic estates were born from a fierce rivalry between two factions of one of Yorkshire's most prominent families. With each striving to surpass the other and establish their dominance within the Wentworth family, the ensuing conflict is a captivating yet untold narrative from 18th-century England. It is a tale of privilege, portraying the origins of two of England's most notable country estates.
The origins of the Wentworth Family feud
The Earls of Strafford
Dating back to the Norman Conquest of England, the Wentworth family has a long history of acquiring land through marriage and gradually becoming a prominent land-owning dynasty. By the onset of the English Civil War, the Wentworths had emerged as one of Yorkshire's leading families, setting up their main residence in Rotherham and eventually building an impressive Jacobean manor.
A sure sign of the Wentworths' success was when they were granted the doomed Earldom of Strafford. The first Earl was unfairly executed by Charles I for treason in 1641, and the second died without issue in 1695, taking the Earldom with him. It was the Earl's nephew, Thomas Wentworth, who was anticipated to inherit the family seat of Wentworth Woodhouse, as well as the substantial family wealth. Only, in an unexpected turn of events, he didn't.
Thomas Wentworth seeks revenge
Thomas Wentworth, a seasoned soldier and occasional politician, was utterly distraught to learn that the inheritance he believed to be rightfully his had been passed down the female lineage to his cousin, Thomas Watson. As the apparent front man of the family, he did inherit the family's secondary title of 'Baron Raby', but this was still a slap in the face for Wentworth, who found himself without a seat and without an earldom.
With aspirations to revive the now defunct Strafford Earldom and outshine his usurping cousin, Wentworth realised he would have to found a great estate of his own in order to elevate his status and demonstrate his worthiness of such a prestigious title. To this end, in 1708, he purchased the nearby Stainborough Hall Estate.
The Wentworth Family and Wentworth Castle
Stainborough Hall
The Stainborough Estate, like many other large estates in England, has its origins dating back to the Norman Invasion. Initially part of the historic honour of Pontefract, Stainborough was owned by the influential de Lacy family, who were granted extensive land by William the Conqueror, establishing themselves as prominent landholders in Northern England. During the Thirteenth Century, the estate transitioned to the Everingham family from Yorkshire, and following their financial struggles, it was acquired by Thomas Cutler.
Although there is limited information available about the Cutler family, it is evident that they were strong Royalists and loyal followers of King Charles I. One notable fact is that Sir Gervase Cutler, the son of Thomas, managed to gather significant funds to aid the Royalist cause in defending Pontefract Castle, where he tragically succumbed to the flu in 1645. Stainborough Hall, constructed between 1670 and 1672, was built by his son, another Gervase.
Reviving the Earldom of Strafford
Thomas Wentworth was a highly ambitious individual who utilised his military and political expertise to strategise his retaliation against his 'unworthy cousin'. With a solid foundation to build his career upon, Wentworth aimed to position himself as a significant figure among the English nobility. After demonstrating great courage in the army under the Duke of Marlborough and subsequently being assigned as an envoy at the Prussian Court, Wentworth was forming beneficial connections and solidifying his status as a valuable resource for the monarchy.
The Earl and his Castle
Wentworth's hard work was rewarded when the Earldom of Strafford was reinstated for him in 1711. In the same year, he wed a wealthy heiress and, by taking on numerous public positions, he managed to amass more wealth, paving the way for a significant transformation of his country residence. Stainborough Hall became Wentworth Castle, and by 1714, the initial phase of expansion was finished, marked by the construction of an impressive new east-facing wing showcasing a magnificent 15-bay Baroque facade.
A political Landscape
One half of his long-term vision for his estate was the house and its impressive art collection. However, Wentworth's greatest legacy arguably lies in the grounds and gardens he enthusiastically developed. He planted rows of trees and created unique and beautiful formal gardens like the Union Jack Garden for his family and friends to enjoy. In a display of affection for his children, Wentworth had a beautiful mock medieval castle built at the top of his estate in 1726. This castle consisted of four towers, each named after one of his kids. This folly also aimed to enhance his lineage and falsely associate him with the estate.
Fall from grace & retirement
Wentworth's political legacy on his estate's landscape is intriguing. Initially a prominent figure in Queen Anne's court, he fell out of favour with the Hanoverians as his political ambitions waned. Supporting 'The Old Pretender' James Stuart led to his exile from Court, essentially pushing him into retirement. With ample free time, he focused on reshaping his estate's landscape, epitomising his sentiments towards the new regime through the defiant Queen Anne Monument erected in 1734, a clear gesture of resistance against the Hanoverians!
The Watson Family & Wentworth Woodhouse
The Watson-Wentworths
While Thomas Wentworth was scheming to gain dominance in the family, his cousin Thomas Watson seemed to remain calm and composed. Despite having to adopt the name Watson-Wentworth due to his significant inheritance, there were few other noticeable changes during his tenure as the overseer of the family estate.
A Whig powerhouse
His son, also named Thomas, who inherited in 1723, took a different path. It seems that influenced by the events at Stainborough Hall/Wentworth Castle, he was determined to escalate the family feud. Becoming a prominent figure in the Whig political party, Wentworth Woodhouse quickly became the party's central location in the North of England. The self-centered and ambitious Thomas Watson-Wentworth not only aimed to surpass his Wentworth relatives but also sought to showcase his perceived significance and status to his peers.
When money is no object
Despite owning a sizeable Jacobean mansion, Watson-Wentworth sought to sever its architectural association with the Stuart dynasty. Moreover, believing that his current home did not showcase the magnificence suitable for his position, he chose to spend lavishly. In 1725, he began the construction of a magnificent red brick Baroque facade.
The Marquis of Rockingham
Watson-Wentworth's career was flourishing. While supervising the building of a new house and taking on the role of the Whig leader in Yorkshire, he was granted the Earldom of Malton, raising his rank to that of his cousin, the 2nd Earl of Strafford. However, this was just the beginning. In recognition of his loyalty to the crown, in 1746 the new Earl surpassed Strafford by being appointed as the Marquis of Rockingham. This appointment coincided with his acquisition of the Rockingham Barony earlier in the same year.
While the Marquis was dedicated to advancing in his career and gaining more titles, his country house was going through substantial changes, evolving to the point of being unrecognisable. Astonishingly, even before the grand Baroque renovation was completed, he began building a larger and more luxurious extension to his already palace-like residence.
From Baroque mansion to Palladian palace
Baroque was criticised for its strong connection to Catholicism, leading to its decline in popularity among the Whig colleagues who preferred the revival of the Palladian style, known for its restraint and mathematical proportions. Watson-Wentworth was clearly not one for compromise, and his new west wing that started to emerge in 1735 was one of the largest construction projects of its age.
Although the development of architectural styles can be observed in many of England's grand residences, Wentworth-Woodhouse stands out for appearing like two distinct houses constructed back to back. The magnificent Palladian frontage truly stood as a remarkable achievement of the Georgian era, and even though the 1st Marquis of Rockingham did not live to see its finalisation, his successor, Charles, carried on his father's legacy with a steadfast commitment to achieving excellence.
The Wentworth family feud Persists
Thomas Wentworth, the 1st Earl of Strafford (second creation), passed away in 1739, bequeathing the estate he had fervently built to his son, William. Witnessing the remarkable advancements made by his competitors at Wentworth Woodhouse, the 2nd Earl of Strafford must have been amazed, prompting him to follow in his father's footsteps and dedicate all his endeavours to ensuring that Wentworth Castle was equally remarkable.
A more naturalistic landscape
The Earl chose to deviate from his father's formal style by engaging the renowned landscape gardener, Lancelot 'Capability' Brown, in order to design a more naturalistic landscape. In addition to enhancing this exceptional landscape, the Earl introduced additional monuments and follies. While some of these structures no longer exist today, the Earl is credited with overseeing the construction of the Ionic and Corinthian Temples, as well as the 'Archers Hill Gate'.
Wentworth Castle: A Palladian masterpiece
The Earl's active participation in the development and improvement of his Wentworth Castle estate is clear. He is known for his enthusiasm for botany and his extensive knowledge of exotic plants. Moreover, he took a keen interest in the architectural designs of the Castle, leaving behind a remarkable legacy in the impressive eastern range he built from 1759 to 1764.
While the new facade at Wentworth Castle may be less elaborate in design compared to the extravagant Palladian extension of Wentworth Woodhouse, it is equally impressive. Reflecting the prevailing trend of Neo-Palladianism in Georgian England, the Castle showcases a stunning central carved pediment upheld by 6 pillars following the classical Corinthian Order.
Later years at Wentworth Woodhouse
Twice Prime Minister
After the 1st Marquis passed away in 1750, the Wentworth Woodhouse estate was inherited by his son, also named Charles. The 2nd Marquis, who was famous for serving as Prime Minister twice, had a strong love for horse racing, a passion that is clearly reflected in the house. He is credited with constructing a large stable block in 1766, and even though the Palladian wing was not finished when he took over, he made modifications to the design by attaching two porticos to the front.
The Earls Fitzwilliam
It is likely accurate to state that with the Marquis' passing in 1783, Wentworth Woodhouse's golden era was starting to decline. The property was inherited by his nephew, the 4th Earl Fitzwilliam, and stayed within the Fitzwilliam family's possession until 1989.
The decline of Wentworth WoodHouse
Unfortunately, at this stage, the estate had undergone a significant decline. This was mainly due to the government's decision after the Second World War to permit 40 years of open-cast coal mining at Wentworth Woodhouse, and the subsequent nationalisation of the mines – a key income source for the Fitzwilliam family – resulted in severe financial consequences for them. As a result, by 1950, a large part of the estate and its surroundings were used by an educational institution, a scenario that lasted until 1986, when the polytechnic moved to Sheffield.
The search for a buyer
After being listed for sale multiple times, Wentworth Woodhouse was eventually bought as a private residence in 1989 and again in 1998. The last private owner, Mr. Clifford Newbold, initiated renovations on the property before selling it to the Wentworth Woodhouse Preservation Trust in 2017 for £7.6 million. This purchase saved the house from an uncertain future, and it is now undergoing a comprehensive restoration project, open to the public for them to appreciate its grandeur.
A new lease of life for Wentworth Woodhouse
The effects of open-cast coal mining were extremely damaging, resulting in the near destruction of the gardens and significant damage to the house. Nevertheless, the Trust has done an outstanding job in revitalising the grounds, including installing a new roof on the house and putting substantial effort into restoring the stunning interiors. These renovations must be witnessed firsthand to be fully appreciated, especially the Marble Saloon, renowned as one of the finest Georgian rooms in England.
The tale of Wentworth Woodhouse is truly remarkable, as it currently functions as a community centre where individuals can gather, interact, and delve into the house's history, which is truly wonderful. Regrettably, the situation is not quite the same for Wentworth Castle. Well, not entirely!
Later years at Wentworth Castle
The Vernon-Watson years
Similar to Wentworth Woodhouse, Wentworth Castle also experienced a decline over the years. The death of the 3rd Earl in 1799 marked the end of the Strafford Earldom for the second time, leading to the division of the Wentworth legacy into three parts, with one third inherited by the daughters of the first Earl. Wentworth Castle, however, was entrusted to Frederick Vernon, the grandson of one of the second Earl's sisters. Frederick adopted the name Vernon-Watson and, while making some improvements to the Castle, showed a greater interest in gardening.
Victorian modernisations
The estate was inherited by Thomas Vernon-Watson in 1885, the eldest son. Thomas significantly influenced Wentworth Castle with his updates, such as introducing electric lighting to the house and building an impressive conservatory featuring innovative design and under-floor heating. At that time, Wentworth Castle remained a prestigious residence, and its owner, Thomas, was recognised as one of the 'wealthiest commoners in England'. Notably, Thomas successfully arranged royal visits from the Duke of Clarence in 1888 and 1889.
An educational institution
Regrettably, Thomas died in 1902, and his son, Bruce, assumed responsibility. Although Bruce initially showed interest in enhancing his Yorkshire estate, he abandoned Wentworth Castle in 1919 and disposed of its invaluable interior belongings. This action triggered the estate's decline, leading to a brief military occupation during the Second World War, before Barnsley Council took ownership in 1948. The Castle was then repurposed as a teacher training college, later becoming The Northern College of Residential Adult Education, a role it continues to fulfill today.
The National Trust at Wentworth Castle
Despite the challenges faced, the grounds and gardens of Wentworth Castle have had a more positive trajectory. In 2002, the newly established Wentworth Castle Heritage Trust took ownership of them and, following considerable effort, they were opened to the public with great celebration in 2007. However, this initial success was short-lived, as a funding crisis led to the closure of the gardens to the public just ten years later. Fortunately, this setback did not mark the end for Wentworth Castle Gardens. In 2018, a partnership between the National Trust, Barnsley Council, and the Northern College led to the reopening of the site later that same year.
Although it is unfortunate that the National Trust or any other Trust has not acquired Wentworth Castle itself, the grounds and gardens are considered one of the most exceptional 18th-century landscapes in Britain. Furthermore, being listed as grade 1, you can be confident in the historical importance of the site.
Wentworth Woodhouse vs Wentworth Castle
The outcome of intense competition
It is undeniable that the presence of these two Yorkshire estates today can be traced back to the familial turmoil that dominated a significant portion of the 18th century. While Wentworth Woodhouse could have organically developed into one of England's most splendid estates at that time, I am convinced that its present magnificence and vast size are a direct result of fierce competition and internal conflicts. Additionally, had historical conditions been different, the Wentworth Castle Estate may not have been established at all.
The Watson-Wentworths were more wealthy
The Watson-Wentworths were evidently more affluent than the Wentworths they were in competition with. Given that Wentworth Woodhouse is still the biggest house in Britain with the longest country house facade in Europe, it is fair to infer that the Watson-Wentworths were the leading contenders in the competition among houses. The interior spaces are equally impressive, transforming Wentworth Woodhouse into a residence more reminiscent of a palace rather than a typical country home.
The Watson-Wentworths got an early start
Nevertheless, it is important to note that the Watson-Wentworths had a significant advantage in this highly costly competition. While the Marquis extensively reconstructed the house in the 18th century, he already possessed a sizeable country estate and an impressive Jacobean manor house as a starting point for his endeavors. In contrast, the earl of Strafford largely had to build his family estate from the ground up with less established resources.
One of the finest 18th century landscapes
Wentworth Castle is located in a landscape that is considered by many to be superior to that of Wentworth Woodhouse today, making it stand out among other 18th-century landscapes in England. While the National Trust managed gardens at Wentworth Castle are the main attraction, comparing its landscape to that of Wentworth Woodhouse in a historical context is difficult. This is mainly because the Wentworth Woodhouse estate is significantly smaller now than it was during its peak in the 18th century.
The park surrounding Wentworth Woodhouse was substantially larger than that of Wentworth Castle and spanned an impressive 9 miles. It boasted a diverse array of elements including woodland, lakes, fish ponds, formal gardens, obelisks, temples, and a menagerie. Although many of these features are still present, a significant portion of the estate has been either sold or repurposed throughout the years. Notably, the Japanese and Italian gardens are now located within the confines of a neighboring garden center.
As previously mentioned, a significant challenge arises from the irreparable damage inflicted on much of the estate during the post-war 'dark period.' Consequently, the landscape surrounding Wentworth Castle could be deemed more impressive in comparison to its current state. Nevertheless, it is important to recognise the commendable efforts of the Wentworth Woodhouse Preservation Trust in rejuvenating the grounds and gardens at the Woodhouse. The whole estate is beginning to appear absolutely beautiful.
When considering which of the two historic estates is superior, I believe that, in my view, the Wentworth Woodhouse estate claims the top spot. It is impressive that both estates have managed to survive in some capacity to this day, despite facing financial difficulties and the disappearance of many of England's grandest estates. As the Wentworth Woodhouse estate gradually regains its former splendour, it undoubtedly stands as the preeminent country estate of today, just as it did during its peak in the 18th century.
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